Expedition
Mount Makalu Expedition
Trip Facts
Duration
51 Days
Starts In
Kathmandu
Ends In
Kathmandu
Maximum Altitude
8,463 m
Expedition Grade
Strenuous Plus
Best Season
April and May & October and November
Attractions
Mt. Makalu is the fifth highest mountain in the world and is considered to be one of the most challenging mountains to summit.
First Climbed
Makalu was first summited on May 15, 1955 by Lionel Terray and Jean Couzy of a French expedition led by Jean Franco.
Mount Makalu Expedition
Mount Makalu is the fifth highest mountain at 8,485 metres (27,838 ft). It is located in the Mahalangur Himalayas 19 km (12 mi) southeast of Mount Everest, on the border between Nepal and Tibet, China. Being one of the eight-thousanders, Expedition of Mount Makalu has been hot topic among mountain climbers. Mount Makalu is an isolated peak whose shape is a four-sided pyramid which has enriched its beauty.
Makalu has two notable subsidiary peaks. Kangchungtse, or Makalu II (7,678 m) lies about 3 km (2 mi) north-northwest of the main summit. Rising about 5 km (3.1 mi) north-northeast of the main summit across a broad plateau, and connected to Kangchungtse by a narrow, 7,200 m saddle, is Chomo Lonzo (7,804 m).
Makalu is one of the harder eight-thousanders, or is considered one of the most difficult mountains to climb. The mountain is notorious for its steep pitches and knife-edged ridges that are completely open to the elements. The final ascent of the summit pyramid involves technical rock/ice climbing.
The first expedition on Mount Makalu was made by an American team led by Riley Keegan in the spring of 1954. The expedition was composed of Sierra Club members including Allen Steck, and was called the California Himalayan Expedition to Makalu. They attempted the southeast ridge but were turned back at 7,100 m (23,300 ft) by a constant barrage of storms. A New Zealand team including Sir Edmund Hillary was also active in the spring, but did not get very high due to injury and illness. In the fall of 1954, a French reconnaissance expedition made the first ascents of the subsidiary summits Kangchungtse (October 22: Jean Franco, Lionel Terray, sirdar Gyalzen Norbu Sherpa and Pa Norbu) and Chomo Lonzo (October 30: Jean Couzy and Terray).
Makalu was first summited on May 15, 1955 by Lionel Terray and Jean Couzy of a French expedition led by Jean Franco. Franco, Guido Magnone and Gyalzen Norbu Sherpa summitted the next day, followed by Jean Bouvier, Serge Coupé, Pierre Leroux and André Vialatte on the 17th. This was an amazing achievement at the time, to have the vast majority of expedition members to summit, especially on such a difficult peak. Prior to this time, summits were reached by one to two expedition members at most, with the rest of teams providing logistical support before turning around and heading home. The French team climbed Makalu by the north face and northeast ridge, via the saddle between Makalu and Kangchungtse (the Makalu-La), establishing the standard route.
Makalu is considered one of the most challenging mountains to climb and requires fine technical skills. Makalu-Barun Valley is a Himalayan glacier valley situated at the base of Makalu in the Sankhuwasabha district of Nepal. This valley lies entirely inside the Makalu Barun National Park.
Barun Valley provides stunning contrasts, where high waterfalls cascade into deep gorges, craggy rocks rise from lush green forests, and colorful flowers bloom beneath white snow peaks. This unique landscape shelters some of the last pristine mountain ecosystems on Earth. Rare species of animals and plants flourish in diverse climates and habitats, relatively undisturbed by human kind.
Itinerary:
Day 01 Arrive Kathmandu
Day 02 Rest/preparation
Day 03 Fly Tumlingtar 460m; drive Num 1500m
Day 04 Trek Seduwa 1540m
Day 05 Trek Tashigaon 2070m
Day 06 Rest/acclimatize
Day 07 Trek Khongma 3560m
Day 08 Trek Dobato 3650m
Day 09 Trek Yangle Kharka 3600m
Day 10 Trek Langmale Kharka 4400m
Day 11 Trek Makalu Base Camp 4870m
Day 12/43 Climbing period
Day 44 Trek Yangle Kharka
Day 45 Trek Mumbuk 3550m
Day 46 Trek Khongma
Day 47 Trek Seduwa
Day 48 Trek Num
Day 49 Drive Tumlingtar
Day 50 Fly Kathmandu
Day 51 Depart Kathmandu
COST INCLUSIONS
- Arrival & Departure transfer from and to the airport & hotels.
- 4 nights bed & breakfast accommodation in a 5* hotel in Kathmandu (twin share).
- Teahouse accommodation on full board (breakfasts, lunches & dinners) during the trek.
- Base Camp accommodation with an individual sleeping tent with mattress.
- Freshly cooked meals are prepared by our expert cook at base camp and Camp II.
- Base Camp service (shared with the group) includes a kitchen tent with the cook, kitchen boy, dining tent with tables and chairs, shower tent, toilet tent, storage tent, gas heater, etc.
- All foods and EPI gas for the members and staff for their stay at high Camps.
- Airfare: Kathmandu/Tumlingtar/Kathmandu for members, staff and liaison officer.
- 1 Climbing Sherpa for 1 climbing member during the expedition.
- All the Expenses of the liaison officer such as equipment allowance and wages as per instructed by the Nepal Government.
- Expedition Royalty and Climbing Permit of Nepal Government to climb Mt. Makalu (8463).
- Icefall Charges by Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee.
- Makalu-Barun National Park Permit
- The required number of porters with wages, equipment, medical and accidental insurance.
- Equipment allowance and insurance for the climbing Sherpa's, cooks, and kitchen boys involved in an expedition.
- Helicopter Rescue Insurance for high altitude climbing Sherpa, cook, and staff.
- Baggage allowance of 40 Kg per member which the porters will carry.
- 6 Bottles Of Oxygen with a mask regulator for each member.
- 4 Bottles Of Oxygen For The Climbing Sherpa.
- Medical Kit carried by the guide/ sardar.
- Walkie-Talkie and satellite phone (charges per call).
- Rope Fixing Charge.
- Salary & Load Carrying Bonus For Sherpa (this bonus does not include the summit bonus).
- Welcome & Farewell Dinner at an authentic Nepali restaurant in Kathmandu.
- Applicable local and government taxes.
COST EXCLUSIONS
- International Airfare to and from Kathmandu.
- Nepal Visa fee.
- Travel & medical insurance including insurance for emergency rescue & evacuation.
- Lunches and dinners in Kathmandu.
- Personal expenses such as telephone, laundry, bottled water, bar bills, etc.
- Trekking/climbing gear (also available on hire).
- Summit bonus for Sherpa & tips for local staffs ( $1500+$300)
- Cost for the daily weather forecast.
- Tips for the staffs as gratitude.
- Any extra cost arising out of natural calamities or cancellation of the program.
- All other items are not mentioned in the list of ‘inclusion